![Mining the paper trail](https://i0.wp.com/carolynabraham.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/IMGP0087-iPhoto-Edited.jpg?resize=186%2C186&ssl=1)
We hunched over practically illegible record books, sweating next to a moody fan and watched over by a chipped statue of Saint Anthony and the hardboiled gaze of Cochin’s last Portuguese bishop. Every ten minutes or so my father and I traded profound observations.
“Everyone here married their cousins.”
“Look how many people died of worms.”
“Worms and swelling.”
“Swelling—is that a disease?”
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