Stephen, whose long legs were not built for Indian buses or back seats, sat up front with Joseph. They formed an easy bond,unfolding maps, studying the route north from Kochi. Joseph spoke Malayalam and a little English, but how little we couldn’t be sure. Stephen inquired about mileage, diesel engines, and the peculiar honking protocol of Indian roadways (two for passing, one for changing lanes? for going too fast, too slow?). Joseph mostly nodded his replies and laughed.